Brahm, who started Arbor Hill Grapery nine years ago after 23 years as a viticulturist for Widmer Wine Cellars down the road in Naples, grows mostly hybrids such as Marechal Foch and native grapes like Niagara and Catawba.
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The best sparkling wine was deemed the 1991 brut ( $ 15 ) from Chateau Frank in Hammondsport, N . Y ., on Keuka Lake; the best dessert wine, the 1997 Fiore Delle Stelle Vidal ice wine from Casa Larga in Fairport ( $ 25 for a half bottle ); the best blush, the 1997 Genundewah blush ( $ 6 ) from the Arbor Hill Grapery, on Canandaigua Lake in Naples, N . Y . These wineries lie in the lakes region, white-wine territory, which has been emerging as the major source of high-quality German-style riesling in the United States.
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